Choosing and cooking with chiles

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There are many types of chiles, ranging from mild to fiery hot. The degree of heat depends on the time of harvest - red chiles are riper, of course, and taste sweeter and somewhat hotter than green - and also on the variety and handling techniques used.

The most commonly used chile is the ANAHEIM. It is fairly large - 6 to 7 inches long - with mild heat. Harvested green, it is a favorite for stuffing or for roasting and using in sauces and stews. When harvested red, the anaheim is strung in ristras, large strands of chiles that are hung outside in the sun to dry. It can then be ground into chile powder.

The NEW MEXICO GREEN chile is similar to the anaheim, and the two are interchangeable in my recipes. The New Mexico green is slightly smaller than the anaheim, and varies in strength from medium to very hot, depending on the region it was grown in. The New Mexico Red is a ripened New Mexico Green. It can be used fresh or frozen, but it is more commonly dried and powdered.

The JALAPENO, about 3 inches long, has a fiery hot taste and, although usually eaten green, can also be matured on the vine and ripened to red. It is added raw to salsas and salads or cooked in sauces, soups and stews. Jalapenos are roasted, then dried.

The SERRANO, a smaller chile, can be substituted for the jalapeno. It has a hot but fruity flavor when eaten green; the red pods can be dried, but taste best eaten fresh.

The fresh CAYENNE pepper is about 4 to 7 inches in length, and ¼ to ¾ inch wide. It is a hot, sweet chile with thin flesh that tends to twist as it grows; it has the best flavor when it is red and mature, but is also eaten green.

The HOLLAND chile is a hybrid that is available all year and tastes very similar to a fresh cayenne pepper.

The GUAJILLO is a tough-skinned dried brownish-red chile about 4 inches in length. It has a rich, earthy flavor that is fruity with a medium hotness.

Other extrememly hot chiles that are eaten dried include the CHILE DE ARBOL and the CHILE PEQUIN. Both should be used sparingly.

HANDLING CHILES Always wash fresh and dried chiles to remove dirt.

Whenever handling chiles, always take precautions to avoid skin irritation: wear rubber gloves and DO NOT rub your eyes.

ROASTING CHILES There are various techniques for roasting chiles, each resulting in a slightly different flavor. Red and yellow bell peppers can be roasted by the same methods.

The Oven Method: Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F., place the chiles on a baking sheet, and bake for 20 to 30 minutes. Turn the chiles frequently as they begin to brown until all sides are evenly blistered and browned. Remove from the oven.

"Sweat" the chiles in a closed paper or plastic bag 5 to 10 minutes, until they are cook enough to handle. Peel each chile from the tip to the stem and discard the skins. If you are drying the chiles leave them whole at this point and continue with the drying process.

Otherwise, pull off the stems, remove the seeds and veins, and rinse in water to remove stray seeds. The Open Flame Method: Roast the whole fresh chiles over a barbecue grill or a gas stove with the flame set at medium high. Turn the chiles with tongs every couple of minutes until all parts are thoroughly charred.

Remove the chiles from the flame and soak them in ice water. Under cold running water, rub the charred skins off and discard.

This method is a better one to use than the oven method when you are making stuffed chiles, because the meat remains firm inside. If using a chile for stuffing or for cooking whole, leave on the stem and make only one slit to remove the veins and seeds, stuff the chile and reseal it.

The Frying Method: Put 1 inch vegetable oil in a saucepan with sides high enough to protect you from splatters. Heat until hot byt not quite smoking, then gently drop in enough chiles to cover the bottom of the pan. Turn with tongs as they begin to blister. The skins will loosen as the chiles turn golden brown. Remove from oil and drain on paper towels. When the chiles are cool enough to handle, peel the skins from the stem to the tip and discard. Slice the chiles lengthwise, remove the seeds, devein, remove stems and rinse. *** NOTE *** Whichever method you use, the chiles, once prepared, can be stored in plastic bags in the refrigerator for 3 days, or frozen abd kept for up to 6 months.

Green chiles can also be dried for future use. Roast and peel the green chiles using theOven Method. Hang the chiles on a long string or lay them flat on a screen and place outdoors for about 4 days (the weather must be warm and dry). Turn the chiles each day to make sure each side dries equally. Once the chiles are fully dried, they can be bagged and stored in a cool, dry place.

To reconstitute the dried chiles soak them in warm water for ½ hour, then remove the stems and seeds. The chiles will expand to their original size and can be used as you would use fresh chiles.

Submitted By HILDE MOTT On 11-19-94

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