Pariser roulade (chocolate cream roll)

144 servings

Ingredients

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Directions

In the main square of Grinzing (Vienna's rollicking wine- garden district) there is a much frequented pastry shop. Which goes to show you how Vienna is always Vienna: even its carousing quarter keeps the civic sweet tooth firmly in mind. Anyway, the shop sells one of the most delicious roulades I [=author] have ever eaten. It's nothing complicated - one mouthful and I could figure out the recipe - just filled with the ineffable chocolate cream called 'Pariser', and so luscious it gets gasps when you set it on the table. Since this sort of cream filling would melt if you spread it on a hot, freshly baked roulade; and since, on the other hand, a roulade must be rolled up while still hot to keep from cracking too badly - you solve the dilemma for all such cream-filled roulades by using the technique described in the following recipe. Jelly Roll batter 2 recipes Cherry OR Apricot Jam Glaze Parisian Cream 1 Tbsp slivered almonds 1-2 tsp cherry OR apricot jam

Mix, bake, and invert the cake as in Jelly Roll. Immediately spread a large-enough sheet of paper toweling (2 sections) - or, as in Vienna, a large-enough clean dish towel - over the hot roulade. Roll up roulade and towel together (about 3 and ½ turns, ending with gthe seam on the bottom) to make a kind of jellyless jelly roll. (The layer of toweling does two things: it absorbs the cake's excess moisture while it's drying out; and it keepos the roulade from drying into a solid mass, so that later you can unroll it easily to fill it.) When the cake is cold, unroll it and discard the towel.

Without trying to force the unrolled roulade flat (that would make it crack), spread it with the Jam Glaze. Over that, spread a little more than half the Parisian Cream. Roll up the roulade again, ending with the seam on the bottom, and remove to serving platter. Spread two- thirds of the remaining cream over the outside of the roulade to cover completely. With rose tube of pastry bag, pipe remaining cream in a decorative line of rosettes down the entire length of the roulade. Sprinkle lightly with slivered almonds. And dot with small dollops (about ¼ tsp each) of the same jam as used for the glaze, one dollop between each two rosettes. Chill. Slice off ragged ends before serving. From: THE ART OF VIENNESE PASTRY by Marcia Colman Morton. Doubleday & Company, New York. 1969. From the collection of Karin Brewer

Submitted By KARIN BREWER On 01-24-95

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